RMaxx Rock Slider Installation Instructions:
For Running Board Instructions, click HERE
Updated Sept 18, 2023
R1T vs R1S - Note, while they look the same, they are indeed different! As such, Team 1EV has unique parts for each vehicle. The R1T Rock Sliders are longer than the R1S versions. The R1S Rock Sliders are unique and are shorter than the R1T versions. The two vehicle versions are not interchangeable. Instructions are similar but be sure you correctly order R1T or R1S versions of the product.
The installation is DIY friendly to those with moderate mechanical abilities and hand tools. Please pay attention and thoroughly read instructions. It can be overwhelming to look up underneath your Rivian once the plastic rocker panels are removed. There are a lot of bolts! Be patient, we’ve done this a few times so we got you covered! You’ll need to get on your back to install these (on the floor or on a creeper, either is fine – use the cardboard packaging the parts ship in on the floor to keep yourself clean). The installation process is straightforward. All kits include a TP55 bit and T20 bit. You will need the following tools (not included):
- Required: 19mm socket
- Required: 17mm wrench or socket
- Required: 15mm wrench or socket
- Required: 13mm wrench or socket
- Required: 12mm socket
- Required: 10mm socket
- Required: 5mm hex (allen) wrench or bit with driver
- Required: 4mm hex (allen) wrench or bit with driver
- Required: 1/4" hex bit driver (or 1/4" socket & driver)
- Required: Two long (12" or longer) standard tip screwdrivers
- Required: 7/16" socket & ratchet or breaker bar (long 1/2 drive recommended)
- Recommended (optional): Torque wrench for 19m, 17mm, 15mm, 13mm, 12mm, 10mm and 7/16" sockets
- Recommended: RTV Black Silicone and Blue Loctite
- Optional T30 Torx bit
R1T Slider Installation Instructions:
Figure 1: Bolt Legend. RED will refer to TP 55 body bolts, YELLOWare for the 17mm hex head bolts and BLUE is for the inner-most 10mm bolts
1a - Park the truck on level ground and in the suspension menu, make sure the truck is in the highest setting in ‘offroad’ mode (this will provide you with maximum clearance between the ground and the truck to allow you to work comfortably).
1b – Unbox each slider and lay slider frames out on a work surface suitable for assembling tread plates. Under armor plates can be left alone for now. We will tackle the slider frames first. We recommend working on a clean and scratch-free surface, such as cardboard. Avoid sliding products around on concrete or asphalt.
1c – Slider frames are side specific. See image below. Tread plates can be used on either side of the truck, in any orientation/direction. Place a tread plate on one slider frame aligning tread plate holes with mounting tab holes of slider frame.
Figure 2: Slider frames, Left and Right side
1d - Install tread plate bolts and washer in each tread plate mounting hole (20 per side). Bolt should go directly through the washer then tread plate then slider frame mounting tab bolt holes. Install a nut on the bottom side of the slider frame mounting tab. Snug nut. Repeat for all bolts on the tread plate. Once all bolts are installed and snugged, go back and tighten all bolts to 8 ft-lbs.
1e - Repeat 1c and 1d with second slider frame and tread plate.
1f - Place assembled slider frame and tread plate aside. Note which slider frame is passenger side and which is driver, they are not the same.
2 - Plastic Panel Removal: Remove the 3 outer plastic covers along the bottom outside edge of the Rivian. You need to do this along both sides of the Rivian (6 total plastic covers). These covers simply unbolt and pull off the truck. The covers are not part of the RUS protection – these plastic covers are simply thin plastic covers (same covers Rivian advises to remove when jacking directly on the frame). See video here for helpful tips in removing these panels:
Optional Clip Rail Removal:Now that you have removed the plastic panels, you won’t be needing the rails that the panels clip into along the rocker line of the Rivian. These do not interfere with the Slider nor do they serve a purpose once the sliders are installed, so it’s optional whether you want to remove them. They come off quickly by removing the two T30 screws for each rail.
Figure 3: Clip Rail Removed
3 - With plastic panels removed, you now see the exposed bottom side of your Rivian. Using your TP55 bit and your choice of wrench/high torque capable power tool, remove theRED TP55 body bolts at positions 3,4,6,7,8,9,10 as seen in the diagram below (along the red line from the legend shown earlier). You will be leaving bolts in position 1, 2 and 5. Passenger side of vehicle shown below. Front of vehicle is on the right side. Bolt positions are numbered starting from behind the front tires and moving back to the rear of the Rivian.
4 - Loosen 5 but do not remove. Make sure the bolt is threaded into the chassis two full turns. This bolt will be one of seven bolts used to hang the slider frame to the bottom of the chassis later.
Figure 4: TP 55 Body Bolt at position 5 is engaged two full turns. Bolt head is spaced away from the body to receive the slider frame
5 - Double-check that position 5 TP55 body bolt remains in the vehicle, loosened as described in step 4. Positions 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 should have the TP55 body bolts removed. Position 1 and 2 TP55 body bolts remain installed and untouched.
6a – Behind the front tire, loosen the 15mm head/10mm thread flange bolt inboard from RED position 2 TP55 body bolt. Do not remove the bolt. Make sure threads are engaged in the chassis two full rotations. This is another bolt that will be used to hang the slider on.
6b - Remove positions YELLOW 4 and 5 of the 17mm head/10mm thread bolts and triangular shaped black sheet metal bracket. Reinsert bolts and tighten two full rotations. Leave bolts in this position to accept slotted bracket of slider frame.
6c - Repeat 6a for positions 8 and 9 of the 17mm hex head bolts further to the back of the vehicle.
7a - Remove the most forward 13mm hex head flange bolt at rear plastic panel (just in front of rear tire) and install a M12 flat washer onto bolt.
7b - Tighten bolt back into chassis two full rotations. This is the final bolt that will be used to hang slider frame into place.
PRO TIP: If you have a mechanics creeper or furniture dolly, sit slider on top of it and roll the slider up to the edge of the vehicle. If you can elevate the slider with towels, a crate, a box, etc etc you’ll be able to lift into place easier. SEE YOUTUBE VIDEO OF 1EV ENGINEER LIFTING SLIDER INTO PLACE:
8a - Align T slot in the middle of the slider to the #5 position TP55 body bolt of the Rivian.
8b - Lift slider frame up to the chassis, slotted brackets should all align to seven loosened bolts from previous steps and push slider inward to the vehicle. Slider will hang in place by the seven loosened bolts. WARNING: SLIDER IS NOT SECURE AT THIS POINT. TAKE CAUTION TO NOT MOVE IT IN A WAY THAT WOULD LET IT DROP
9 - Insert TP55 body bolts and hand tighten (do not torque these down yet) for positions RED 4,6,8,9 and 10 (as soon as first body bolt is tightened up in this sequence the slider cannot fall down
**The slider is now secure from falling down from chassis**
PRO TIP: PUSH SLIDER FRAME OUTBOARD/AWAY FROM THE CENTER OF THE VEHICLE AS MUCH AS YOU CAN. IT SHOULD ONLY MOVE ~ 1/2-inch BUT THIS WILL HELP TO PROVIDE AMPLE CLEARANCE FOR UNDER ARMOR PLATE TO INSERT WITHOUT INTERFERENCE OF BATTERY TRAY SKID PLATE.
10 - Tighten YELLOW (4) 17mm hex head bracket bolts 45 ft-lbs
11 - Tighten front-most 15mm hex head bolt 25 ft-lbs
12 - Tighten back-most 13mm hex head bolt with new washer 25 ft-lbs
13 - Remove RED location #5 TP55 body bolt.
14 - Remove BLUE locations 1,2,4,6,7 inner most 10mm hex head hex bolts as seen in the photo below. Again, the numbered positions begin at the front of the truck and count up as you move further to the back of the vehicle. Longer bolts will be used to go back into these holes later in the installation. PRO TIP: Save the OEM bolts; they can be used as backups if you ever shear off/damage the supplied bolts used in STEP 17.
15 - Install M8 barrel nut clip on the front and back bracket of the slider. The barrel portion of the nut clip will be on top of the bracket tab.
16 - Lift under armor plate up into position. It helps to position yourself so that you have a visual of the inside of the slider frame and can see the three slots that receive the three tabs of the under-armor plate. The three tabs of the plate will slide into the matching slots of the slider frame along the inside edge of the rail.
PLATE IS NOT SECURE YET. BE CAREFUL TO HOLE INTO PLACE BEFORE SECURING IN NEXT STEP
17 - Insert 1 of the shorter 10mm bolts from hardware kit at the front of the under-armor plate and thread into barrel nut clip installed in previous step. Get the front started, then move to the back and get it started before tightening fully.
18 - Install longer bolts included in your hardware kit along (BLUE line) the inner edge of the under-armor plate and battery tray. It is recommended to use RTV Black Silicone to generously coat the threads and underneath the heads of the bolts as you reinstall them into the vehicle. Torque to 15 ft-lbs
19 - Apply BLUE LOCTITE and insert provided 70mm long hex head bolts into locations RED 3, 5 and 7 (these should be the only positions without a bolt in them). Torque to 80 ft-lbs (Note, if large washers are supplied in the hardware kit, use one with each bolt here. If flange bolts are supplied, washer isn't necessary). Torque all factory TP55 body bolts to 80 ft-lbs.
20 – Torque both 10mm bolts at front and rear of under-armor plate to 20 ft-lbs (which are threaded into the barrel nuts)
21 – Double check torque of inner five BLUEflange bolts to 15 ft-lbs. Wipe excess Silicone from bolt heads after tightening.
22 - Repeat for other side
23 - You’re ready to OFF-ROAD!! Please share your install on social & forums and let us know what you think of the 1EV Sliders.