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    Rivian R1T R1S RMaxx Rock Slider Step-by-Step Installation Instructions (Gen II, shipped after Nov 10th 2023)

    View Rivian R1T / R1S Running Board & Rock Slider Customer Photo Gallery HERE

     

    RMaxx Rock Slider (Gen II)

    Installation Instructions:

    Updated November 16th, 2023

    R1T vs R1S - Note, while they look the same, they are indeed different!  As such, Team 1EV has unique parts for each vehicle.  The R1T Rock Sliders are longer than the R1S versions. The R1S Rock Sliders are unique and are shorter than the R1T versions.  The two vehicle versions are not interchangeable.   Instructions are similar but be sure you correctly order R1T or R1S versions of the product.  Note: if you have the older (Gen I) sliders, please scroll to the bottom of this page for a link to those older instructions.  

     

    The slider installation is DIY friendly. Please pay attention and thoroughly read instructions. It can be overwhelming to look up underneath your Rivian once the plastic rocker panels are removed. There are a lot of bolts! Be patient, we’ve done this a few times so we have got you covered!  You’ll need to get on your back to install these (on the floor or on a creeper, either is fine – or even use the cardboard packaging that the parts are shipped in to lay down on the floor and help to keep yourself clean).   The installation process is straightforward.  All kits include a TP55 bit and T20 bit.  You will need the following tools (not included):

     

    • Required: 17mm wrench or socket
    • Required: 15mm wrench or socket 
    • Required: 13mm wrench or socket 
    • Required: 10mm socket
    • Required: 5mm hex (allen) wrench or bit with driver
    • Required: 4mm hex (allen) wrench or bit with driver
    • Required: 1/4" hex bit driver (or 1/4" socket & driver)
    • Required: (12" or longer) standard tip screwdrivers
    • Required: 7/16" socket & ratchet or breaker bar (long 1/2 drive recommended)
    • Recommended (optional): Torque wrench for 17mm, 15mm, and 7/16" sockets
    • Tape measure or ruler
    • Recommended: Blue Loctite on all OEM Rivian bolts that are removed/reinstalled
    • Optional T30 Torx bit 

     

     

     

    R1T Slider Install Instructions:

    (scroll down to R1S section if needed)

    1a - Park the truck on level ground and in the suspension menu, make sure the truck is in the highest setting in ‘offroad’ mode (this will provide you with maximum clearance between the ground and the truck to allow you to work comfortably).

     

    1b – Unbox each slider and lay slider frames out on a work surface suitable for assembling tread plates.  Under armor plates can be left alone for now. We will tackle the slider frames first. We recommend working on a clean and scratch-free surface, such as carpet or even the cardboard that the parts were shipped in.  Avoid sliding products around on concrete or asphalt.  

     

    1c – Slider frames are side specific.Passenger side is shown below. Driver side is an exact mirror. Tread plates can be used on either side of the truck, in any orientation/direction. Place a tread plate on one slider frame aligning tread plate holes with mounting tab holes of slider frame.  

    Figure 1c: Passenger side slider frame shown with the under armor plate (bottom side of armor plate is shown here)

     

    1d - Install tread plate bolts and washer in each tread plate mounting hole (14 per side R1T). Bolt should go directly through the washer then tread plate then slider frame mounting tab bolt holes. Install a serrated nut on the bottom side of the slider frame mounting tab. Snug nut. Repeat for all bolts on the tread plate. Once all bolts are installed and snugged, go back and tighten all bolts to 5 ft-lbs.

     

    1e - Repeat 1c and 1d with second slider frame and tread plate.  

     

    1f - Place assembled slider frame and tread plate aside. Note which slider frame is passenger side and which is driver, they are not the same.  

     

    2 Plastic Panel Removal: Remove the 3 outer plastic covers along the bottom outside edge of the Rivian. You need to do this along both sides of the Rivian (6 total plastic covers).   These covers simply unbolt and pull off the truck.  The covers are not part of the RUS protection – these plastic covers are simply thin plastic panels (same covers Rivian advises to remove when jacking directly on the frame).  See video here for helpful tips in removing these panels:

    Optional Clip Rail Removal:Now that you have removed the plastic panels, you won’t be needing the rails that the panels clip into along the rocker line of the Rivian. These do not interfere with the Slider nor do they serve a purpose once the sliders are installed, so it’s optional whether you want to remove them. They come off quickly by removing the two T30 screws for each rail. 

     

    Clip Rail

    Figure 2a: Clip rail may be removed but not necessary

     

    Clip Rail Removed

    Figure 2b: Clip Rail Removed

     

     

    Figure 2c:Bolt Legend:RED will reference the TP55 body bolts along the outer edge of the body andYELLOWwill reference the 17mm hex head bolts 

     

    3 - With plastic panels removed, you now see the exposed bottom side of your Rivian. Using your TP55 bit and your choice of wrench/high torque capable power tool, remove theRED TP55 body bolts at positions 3,4,6,7,8,9,10 as seen in the diagram below (along the red line from the legend shown earlier). You will be leaving bolts in position 1, 2 and 5. Passenger side of vehicle shown below. Front of vehicle is on the right side. Bolt positions are numbered starting from behind the front tires and moving back to the rear of the Rivian.

     

    Body Bolts

    Figure 3: RED bolt positions 1-10 starting behind front tire and moving to rear tire


    4 - LoosenRED  5 but do not remove. Make sure the bolt is threaded into the chassis two full turns. This bolt will be one of seven bolts used to hang the slider frame to the bottom of the chassis later.

     

    Body Bolt Loose

    Figure 4: TP 55 Body Bolt at position 5 is engaged two full turns. Bolt head is spaced away from the body to receive the slider frame

     

    5 - Behind the front tire, loosen the 15mm head/10mm thread flange bolt inboard fromRED position 2 TP55 body bolt.  Do not remove the bolt. Make sure threads are engaged in the chassis two full rotations. This is another bolt that will be used to hang the slider on.

     

    Photo 6A

    Figure 5: 15mm hex head bolt loosened

     

    6a - Remove positionsYELLOW 4 and 5 of the 17mm head/10mm thread bolts and triangular shaped black sheet metal bracket. Reinsert bolts and tighten two full rotations. Leave bolts in this position to accept slotted bracket of slider frame.

      Step 6

    Figure 6:sheet metal bracket removed and will not be used. Yellow 4 & 5 loosened but stay in chassis (DRIVER SIDE SHOWN, PASSENGER SIDE IS MIRRORED)

     

    6b - Repeat 6a forYELLOW  positions 8 and 9 of the 17mm hex-head bolts further to the back of the vehicle. 

     

    7 - Loosen most forward 13mm hex head flange bolt at rear plastic panel (just in front of rear tire).  Make sure bolt is threaded into chassis two full rotations.  This is the final bolt that will be used to hang slider frame into place.  

    Figure 7:13mm hex head bolt loosened in front of back tire 

     

    PRO TIP: If you have a mechanics creeper or furniture dolly, sit slider on top of it and roll the slider up to the edge of the vehicle. If you can elevate the slider with towels, a crate, a box, etc etc you’ll be able to lift into place easier. SEE YOUTUBE VIDEO OF 1EV ENGINEER LIFTING SLIDER INTO PLACE

      

     

    Slider Lined Up 

    PRO TIP:Work smart not hard! A rolling stool works great to help position slider underneath vehicle


    8a - Align T slot in the middle of the slider to the  RED #5 position TP55 body bolt of the Rivian.

     

    8b - Lift slider frame up to the chassis, slotted brackets should all align to seven loosened bolts from previous steps and push slider inward to the vehicle. Slider will hang in place by the seven loosened bolts.WARNING: SLIDER IS NOT SECURE AT THIS POINT. TAKE CAUTION TO NOT MOVE IT IN A WAY THAT WOULD LET IT DROP

     

    9 - Insert TP55 body bolts and hand tighten (do not torque these down yet) for positionsRED 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 (as soon as first body bolt is tightened up in this sequence the slider cannot fall down.

    **The slider is now secure from falling down from chassis**

     

    10 - TightenYELLOW (4) 17mm hex head bracket bolts 45 ft-lbs

     

    11 - Tighten front-most 15mm-hex head bolt 25 ft-lbs

     

    12 - Tighten back-most 13mm hex-head bolt 25 ft-lbs

     

    12b - FULLY TORQUE ALL TP55 BOLTS TO 80 FT-LBS including #5 to complete your slider frame install.

     

    12c - Repeat for other side

      

    13 – Double check that allRED  andYELLOW  bolt locations have been properly torqued.

     RED 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 @ 80 ft-lbs

    YELLOW 4, 5, 8, 9 @ 45 ft-lbs

     

    14 – Add (8) M8 barrel nut clips to slider frame as seen below. These nut clips are what the under armor mounting bolts attach to. Double check that you have the nut clip oriented correctly before sliding it onto the tab of the slider frame. Barrel should be oriented on top of the slider frame tab.

    Figure 14: M8 barrel nut clip with threaded section on top of tab

     

    15a - Lift under armor plate up into position. It helps to have a second set of hands for this step. If your friends are busy, use a floor jack with any padded material over the jack pad to lift the under armor plate up into position so that the slots of the plate align to the barrel nut clips.

    Figure 15: Floor jack with padding can be used to lift up the under armor plate

     
    15b - Insert M8 button head bolt (M5 Allen head) with M10 washer starting in the middle of the under-armor plate and thread into barrel nut clips installed in previous step. We recommend a drop of Blue Loctite on each of the M8 button head bolts to ensure their tightness.  Get the four started in the middle of the plate and then move to the ends.

    Figure 15a: Button head bolt with washer threaded into M8 barrel nut clip 

     

    Figure 15b: Hand tighten Button head bolt with wrench to avoid stripping the allen hex socket

     

    16 - Torque all M8 bolts of the under-armor plate to 15 ft-lbs (which are threaded into the barrel nuts)

     

    17 - Repeat for other side


    Done - Congratulations, you’re ready to go OFF-ROADING & ROCK SLIDING!

     

     

    R1S Slider Instructions:

    1a - Park the truck on level ground and in the suspension menu, make sure the truck is in the highest setting in ‘offroad’ mode (this will provide you with maximum clearance between the ground and the truck to allow you to work comfortably).

     1b – Unbox each slider and lay slider frames out on a work surface suitable for assembling tread plates.  Under armor plates can be left alone for now. We will tackle the slider frames first. We recommend working on a clean and scratch-free surface, such as carpet or even the cardboard that the parts were shipped in.  Avoid sliding products around on concrete or asphalt.  

    1c – Slider frames are side specific.Passenger side is shown below. Driver side is an exact mirror. Tread plates can be used on either side of the truck, in any orientation/direction. Place a tread plate on one slider frame aligning tread plate holes with mounting tab holes of slider frame.  

    Figure 1c: Passenger side R1S slider frame shown with the under armor plate (bottom side of armor plate is shown here)

     

    1d - Install tread plate bolts and washer in each tread plate mounting hole (14 per side R1T). Bolt should go directly through the washer then tread plate then slider frame mounting tab bolt holes. Install a serrated nut on the bottom side of the slider frame mounting tab. Snug nut. Repeat for all bolts on the tread plate. Once all bolts are installed and snugged, go back and tighten all bolts to 5 ft-lbs.

     

    1e - Repeat 1c and 1d with second slider frame and tread plate.  

     

    1f - Place assembled slider frame and tread plate aside. Note which slider frame is passenger side and which is driver, they are not the same.  

     

    2 Plastic Panel Removal: Remove the 3 outer plastic covers along the bottom outside edge of the Rivian. You need to do this along both sides of the Rivian (6 total plastic covers).   These covers simply unbolt and pull off the truck.  The covers are not part of the RUS protection – these plastic covers are simply thin plastic panels (same covers Rivian advises to remove when jacking directly on the frame).  See video here for helpful tips in removing these panels:

    Optional Clip Rail Removal:Now that you have removed the plastic panels, you won’t be needing the rails that the panels clip into along the rocker line of the Rivian. These do not interfere with the Slider nor do they serve a purpose once the sliders are installed, so it’s optional whether you want to remove them. They come off quickly by removing the two T30 screws for each rail. 

    Clip Rail

    Figure 2a: Clip rail may be removed but not necessary

    Clip Rail Removed

    Figure 2b: Clip Rail Removed

     

    Figure 2c: Bolt Legend: RED will reference the TP55 body bolts along the outer edge of the body and YELLOW will reference the 17mm hex head bolts 

     

    3 - With plastic panels removed, you now see the exposed bottom side of your Rivian. Using your TP55 bit and your choice of wrench/high torque capable power tool, remove theRED TP55 body bolts at positions 3,4,6,7 as seen in the diagram below (along the red line from the legend shown earlier). You will be leaving bolts in position 1, 2 and 5. Passenger side of vehicle shown below. Front of vehicle is on the right side. Bolt positions are numbered starting from behind the front tires and moving back to the rear of the Rivian.

     

    Body Bolts

    Figure 3: RED bolt positions 1-7 starting behind front tire and moving to rear tire

     

    4 - LoosenRED  5 but do not remove. Make sure the bolt is threaded into the chassis two full turns. This bolt will be one of seven bolts used to hang the slider frame to the bottom of the chassis later.

      Body Bolt Loose

    Figure 4: TP 55 Body Bolt at position 5 is engaged two full turns. Bolt head is spaced away from the body to receive the slider frame

     

    5 - Behind the front tire, loosen the 15mm head/10mm thread flange bolt inboard fromRED position 2 TP55 body bolt.  Do not remove the bolt. Make sure threads are engaged in the chassis two full rotations. This is another bolt that will be used to hang the slider on.

      Photo 6A

    Figure 5: 15mm hex head bolt loosened

     

    6a - Remove positionsYELLOW 4 and 5 of the 17mm head/10mm thread bolts and triangular shaped black sheet metal bracket. Reinsert bolts and tighten two full rotations. Leave bolts in this position to accept slotted bracket of slider frame.

      Step 6

    Figure 6:sheet metal bracket removed and will not be used. Yellow 4 & 5 loosened but stay in chassis (DRIVER SIDE SHOWN, PASSENGER SIDE IS MIRRORED)

     

    6b - Repeat 6a forYELLOW  positions 8 and 9 of the 17mm hex-head bolts further to the back of the vehicle. 

     

    7 - Skip for R1S

     

    PRO TIP: If you have a mechanics creeper or furniture dolly, sit slider on top of it and roll the slider up to the edge of the vehicle. If you can elevate the slider with towels, a crate, a box, etc etc you’ll be able to lift into place easier. SEE YOUTUBE VIDEO OF 1EV ENGINEER LIFTING SLIDER INTO PLACE

      

     

    Slider Lined Up

    PRO TIP:Work smart not hard! A rolling stool works great to help position slider underneath vehicle


    8a - Align T slot in the middle of the slider to theRED #5 position TP55 body bolt of the Rivian.

     

    8b - Lift slider frame up to the chassis, slotted brackets should all align to seven loosened bolts from previous steps and push slider inward to the vehicle. Slider will hang in place by the seven loosened bolts.WARNING: SLIDER IS NOT SECURE AT THIS POINT. TAKE CAUTION TO NOT MOVE IT IN A WAY THAT WOULD LET IT DROP

     

    9 - Insert TP55 body bolts and hand tighten (do not torque these down yet) for positions  RED 3, 4, 6, 7 (as soon as first body bolt is tightened up in this sequence the slider cannot fall down
    **The slider is now secure from falling down from chassis**

     

    10 - TightenYELLOW (4) 17mm hex head bracket bolts 45 ft-lbs

     

    11 - Tighten front-most 15mm-hex head bolt 25 ft-lbs

     

    12b - FULLY TORQUE ALL TP55 BOLTS TO 80 FT-LBS including #5 to complete your slider frame install.

     

    12c - Repeat for other side

      

    13 – Double check that all RED  and YELLOW  bolt locations have been properly torqued.

     RED 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 @ 80 ft-lbs

    YELLOW 4, 5, 8, 9 @ 45 ft-lbs

      

    14 – Add (7) M8 barrel nut clips to slider frame as seen below. These nut clips are what the under armor mounting bolts attach to. Double check that you have the nut clip oriented correctly before sliding it onto the tab of the slider frame. Barrel should be oriented on top of the slider frame tab.

    Figure 14: M8 barrel nut clip with threaded section on top of tab

     

    15a - Lift under armor plate up into position. It helps to have a second set of hands for this step. If your friends are busy, use a floor jack with any padded material over the jack pad to lift the under armor plate up into position so that the slots of the plate align to the barrel nut clips.

    Figure 15: Floor jack with padding can be used to lift up the under armor plate

     
    15b - Insert M8 button head bolt (M5 Allen head) with M10 washer starting in the middle of the under-armor plate and thread into barrel nut clips installed in previous step. We recommend a drop of Blue Loctite on each of the M8 button head bolts to ensure their tightness.  Get the four started in the middle of the plate and then move to the ends.

    Figure 15a: Button head bolt with washer threaded into M8 barrel nut clip 

    Figure 15b: Hand tighten Button head bolt with wrench to avoid stripping the allen hex socket

     

    16 - Torque all M8 bolts of the under-armor plate to 15 ft-lbs (which are threaded into the barrel nuts)

      

    17 - Repeat for other side



    Done - Congratulations, you’re ready to go OFF-ROADING & ROCK SLIDING!

     

     

    For Gen I instructions (orders shipped prior to Nov 10th 2023), click HERE
    For Running Board Instructions, click HERE

     

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