View Rivian R1T / R1S Running Board Customer Photo Gallery HERE

 

RMaxx Running Board Installation Instructions:

For Rock Slider Instructions, click HERE

 

Updated June 21th, 2024

R1T vs R1S - Note, while they look the same, they are indeed different!  As such, Team 1EV has unique parts for each vehicle.  The R1T Running Boards and Rock Sliders are longer than the R1S versions.  The R1S Running Boards and Rock Sliders unique and are shorter than the R1T versions.  The two vehicle versions are not interchangeable.   Instructions are similar, but be sure you correctly order R1T or R1S versions of the product.

 

First, we highly recommend watching our detailed installation video, which will walk through each step in detail:

The installation is DIY friendly and reasonably easy.  You’ll need to get on your back to install these (on the floor or on a creeper, either is fine – use the cardboard packaging the parts ship in on the floor to keep yourself clean).   The installation process is straightforward.  All kits include a TP55 bit and T20 bit.  You will need the following tools (not included):

• Required: 14mm wrench (or socket & ratchet)
• Required: 4mm allen wrench or bit with driver 
• Required: 10mm wrench (or socket & ratchet)
• Required: 7/16" socket & ratchet or breaker bar (long 1/2 drive recommended)
• Recommended (optional): Torque wrench for 14mm and 7/16" sockets
• Recommended: Blue Loctite on all OEM Rivian bolts that are removed/reinstalled

 

Additional tools required specific to each plastic panel option:

For hole saw clearance holes in panels (recommended and easiest option)

• Cutting template (R1T download HERE)
• Cutting template (R1S download HERE)
• 4" hole saw (available HERE)
• Power drill (for 4" hole saw)
• Tape measure or ruler 
• Recommended (optional): Utility blade or razor 

For removing panels and cutting clearance holes in panels then re-using panels

• Cutting template (download R1T HERE)
• Cutting template (R1S download HERE)
• Two long standard tip screwdrivers
• 1/4" hex bit driver or socket & driver
• Cutting tools of choice (4" hole saw - or - snips - or - razor - or - cutting tool)
• Tape measure or ruler

For removing panels (and not re-using panels)

• Two long standard tip screwdrivers
• 1/4" hex bit driver or socket & driver

 

NOTE - TP55 and T20 bits are INSIDE the hardware bag as shown:

 

R1T Running Board Instructions:

1a - Park the truck on level ground. Put the truck in ‘offroad’ mode (which raises the truck to create the maximum under truck clearance to the ground).

1b - Lay running boards out on a work surface suitable for assembling tread plates. We recommend working on a clean and scratch-free surface, such as cardboard. Avoid sliding products around on concrete or asphalt. Running Boards are labeled on the bottom side:

• R1TDRF – DRIVER SIDE FRAME
• R1TPAF – PASSENGER SIDE FRAME

1c - Tread plates are symmetrical and can be used on either side of the truck, and both the top and bottom are the same and can be used in any orientation. Place a tread plate on one running board aligning tread plate holes with running board bracket holes.

1d - Install tread plate bolts and washer in each tread plate mounting hole. Bolt should go directly through the washer then tread plate then running board bracket bolt holes. Install a nut on the bottom side of the running board bracket. Snug nut. Repeat for all bolts on the tread plate. Once all bolts are installed and snugged, go back and tighten all bolts to 8 ft-lbs.

1e - Repeat 1c and 1d with second running board and tread plate.

1f - Place assembled running boards aside. Note which running board is driver (R1TDRF – DR SIDE FRAME) / passenger side (R1TPAF – PA SIDE FRAME), they are not the same. The driver side’s first bracket tab measures approximately 15" from the end cap. The passenger side’s first bracket tab measures approximately 13" from the end cap.

 

 Select Plastic Panel Option:

2a - Retain outer plastic panels (Requires cutting bracket clearance holes in panels). Panels can be cut without removing from the vehicle (recommended easiest option (note: 4" holes can be cut without removing panels, "L-slots" require removing panels to install brackets), Skip to "Plastic Panel Clearance Cutting" below and use cutting template - download templates above). Or, panels can be removed from the vehicle for clearance cutting, then re-installed on the vehicle, Skip to "Plastic Panel Removal" below.

2b - Remove underbody outer plastic panels and do not re-use panels. Note, the factory plastic panels do NOT offer any underbody protection. The purpose of the panels is to improve the aerodynamics of the underside of the truck. Leaving the plastic panels off permanently is acceptable and will not risk damage to the truck and the aerodynamic impact will be insignificant, since the running board brackets extend past the panels anyway.

Plastic Panel Removal (optional):

Remove the 3 outer plastic covers on the bottom outside edge of the Rivian, on both sides of the Rivian (6 total plastic covers). These covers simply unbolt and pull off the truck. The covers are not part of the RUS protection – these plastic covers are simply thin plastic covers (same covers Rivian advises to remove when jacking directly on the frame). Clearance cutting the panels is described below.

 

Plastic Panel Clearance Cutting (optional):

Watch the DIY how-to video HERE. The modification entails cutting a clearance hole (or slot) for our brackets to pass through. We provide a downloadable cutting template with the kit (download cutting templates above) - print full size, 1 to 1, do not 'fit to page' when printing. Once printed, compare a measurement on printed template to ruler and confirm template measurement matches ruler), allowing you to easily mark the covers and guide your clearance cutting. The plastic covers are thin and easily cut with a hole saw, snips, razor, or small saw. A total of 8 slots are required, 4 per side.  

3 - Inside the 4" clearance hole, remove the TP55 underbody bolt, install Team 1EV running board bracket by re-installing TP55 underbody bolt through bracket. Brackets only fit in the correct orientation where the mounting tab with two square holes faces outside of vehicle. Note, for R1S, there are three different brackets in your kit:

• 105-001 – R1S MOUNTING BRACKET X 4
• 105-002 – R1S DRIVER SIDE REAR X 1
• 105-003 – R1S PASSENGER SIDE REAR X 1

Bracket 105-001 will be used at the front and middle locations on both sides of the vehicle. 105-002 is specifically for the back position on the DRIVER SIDE and 105-003 is for the back position on the PASSENGER SIDE. These brackets are side specific, once installed they allow the use of a jack puck at the OEM jack point on the chassis. Tighten the TP55 bolts close to flush to allow for a minimal amount of movement from the bracket. If you are not using the plastic panels, the TP55 bolts used are (as measured from the front tire back: front bolt (approximately 18" from edge of front fender flare), second bolt (48" from edge of front fender flare) and third bolt (72" from edge of front fender flare.)

 

3b - Note - If plastic panels were removed for T&L-slot clearance cutting, modified panels must be re-installed now, before installing running boards.

4 - Hold the running board up to the installed brackets with the running board mounting tabs positioned on the rear side of the installed brackets. Install supplied carriage bolts into the front side of installed brackets' square hole, with the bolt extending through the installed bracket hole and running board mounting tab hole. Attach nut on carriage bolt and finger tighten. Repeat for all six installed brackets.

5 - Adjust running board to desired position relative to truck, sliding the running board in or out (approximately 10mm adjustment). Fully tighten all carriage bolts, 35 ft-lbs. Turn off 'offroad' mode.

6 - Torque the TP55 bolts under the brackets to 80 ft-lbs. Turn off 'offroad' mode.